This morning, Auckland is grey. The grey sky sits lifelessly above the roaring morning traffic. At the ferry terminal, boats cruise in from across the grey harbour, delivering inner city workers from the outer suburbs and gulf islands. Looking up, I see the tall grey Sky Tower - Auckland's iconic central city structure - and across the water I spot the Auckland harbour bridge - a clothes hanger-shaped tangle of grey iron dotted with speeding cars and topped with two fluttering flags.

Home to over a quarter of the country's 4 million strong population, Auckland is a melting pot of cultures and identities. As well as its significant Polynesian community, 11% of the city's population is Maori, 12% hail from Asian countries and 65% are of European descent - including immigrants from the likes of Hungary, Holland and Yugoslavia.

Built around a slender isthmus in the vicinity of three harbours, Auckland is the third most sprawling city in the world: larger in land area than Los Angeles. Consequently, Auckland has been split into four cities, each with their own governing body: Auckland City, Manukau City, Waitakere City and North Shore City. As we embark on our Great Sights morning tour from the middle of Auckland City, driver Pete shares his extensive knowledge of the region he calls home.

From the top of Mt Eden - one of 48 dormant volcanoes scattered around Auckland - we scan the spectacular 360 degree view. Pete points out each of the four cities, giving us a sense of orientation in the midst of the seemingly endless metropolis.

From up here certain landmarks are easily spotted: the skinny Sky Tower, of course; Eden Park, pre-2011 Rugby World Cup upgrade; One Tree Hill (now No-Tree Hill after the singular tree was removed by the council six years ago); and the spectacular Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf. "Rangitoto," explains Pete, "is Maori for 'blood sky'.

Rangitoto is the baby of Auckland's volcanic family. Whilst the flat topped hills like Mt Eden and Mt Albert have not been active for around 20,000 years, Rangitoto only reared from the ocean 600 years ago. "Local Maori were sitting on the waterfront watching Rangitoto do its thing just 200 years ago," says Pete, with a hint of amazement in his voice. The island's sharp peak forms a formidable silhouette - a distant yet ever-present reminder of the region's fiery history.

There's a good chance Rangitoto was still rumbling away when Auckland's first suburb was developed. The suburb known as Parnell was established in 1841. Today the petite precinct of Parnell Village boasts an abundance of cafes, art galleries and a stretch of boutique shops selling everything from New Zealand handicrafts to diamond rings.

The city's history is further documented at the nearby Auckland War Memorial Museum, perched within the tranquil Auckland Domain. The front half of this spectacular historic building was built in 1929 to remember the First World War. The back half of the building was built in 1960 to commemorate WWII.

Other commemorative icons are scattered around the city. Although void of a tree, One Tree Hill is home to an enormous obelisk, marking the burial place of Sir Logan Campbell - one of Auckland's most significant founding fathers.

Another favoured founder was Governor Hobson whose burial site near the city centre is marked with an information plaque. Similarly, Michael Joseph Savage, New Zealand's first labour Prime Minister, was entombed in the 1940s at what is now known as the Michael Joseph Savage Memorial Gardens. Located near Savage's favourite waterfront spot - Bastion Point - the memorial site is just one of the 100 parks and gardens in Auckland city. Green spaces are dotted throughout the central city, providing walkways and jogging paths for the myriad of fitness junkies that reside here.

The waterfront is another popular running spot. Tamaki Drive, for example, leads joggers past the famous Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World and Antarctic Attraction, past yachts bobbing in the harbour, through the affluent seaside suburbs of Mission Bay, Kohimarama and St Heliers.

The city's isthmus location means Aucklanders are never far from a beach. According to Pete, the isthmus is just 1.5km wide at its thinnest point, meaning that within a very short space of time, beach lovers can go from frolicking in the Tasman Sea to wading in the Pacific Ocean. Those of a nautical persuasion are also well catered for in Auckland. Per head of population, Auckland has more boat-owners than any other city in the world, hence its moniker - the City of Sails. A wander through the Viaduct Basin, a drive across the Harbour Bridge, or an amble along Tamaki Drive can all be done to a backdrop of rigid, white bobbing masts.

By the time we cruise back towards the city centre, the grey clouds have cleared. The blue of the sky is reflected in the glittering harbour. Hundreds of white masts glint in the sun. Vibrant green parks and poppy-strewn gardens radiate colour and the city centre is alive with a bustling rainbow of people.

It certainly takes more than a grey morning to dull the vibrant colours of New Zealand's largest city.

Amelia experienced the Great Sights Discover Auckland morning tour courtesy of Intercity Group (NZ) Ltd and www.fourcorners.co.nz.