Monday

Midday, Central Wellington.

There's a palpable buzz in the air. Lunchtime has just broken in central Wellington. Office workers bustle along brick-paved lanes, shoes clicking, collars sharp. Newspapers are tucked under arms; cellphones and iPods adorn ears.

In the turn of a corner, things change. Here, a barrage of dreadlocks and Chuck Taylors skateboards swiftly by. Tattoos and stretched earlobes abound.

All the while a crackling electricity lingers overhead, like the spiders' webs of trolley-bus cables that criss-cross the central city.

Wellington is a chameleon; home to an eclectic melting pot of PDA-carrying government employees, trend-setting fashion designers, op-shopping university students and bongo-brandishing musicians. The face of New Zealand's capital city is ever-changing, constantly diversifying and always exciting.

3pm, Mount Victoria

At 196 metres above sea level Wellington's famous wind has no qualms about whipping me around. I'm atop Mount Victoria and my Rover Tours guide, Nathan, is holding down his hat with one hand and shouting at me against the buffeting wind. "From here you can see just how small Wellington city actually is!"

Although just 28,990 hectares (or 289.9km2) Wellington city is home to over 190,000 residents.

"The rule of thumb," yells Nathan, "is: be nice to everyone because you will see them again!"

6pm, Bolton Hotel

Wind has turned to rain. From the plush comfort of my 14th floor room at the Bolton Hotel, the push of a button tells me it's 12 degrees outside and 23 in. The choice to stay put isn't hard.

After scoffing my welcome chocolates I wrap myself in the velvety soft robe and order 'gourmet beef with red wine sauce'. Later I spend so much time pondering my bedside pillow menu - featuring Lavender, European, Slimline and the edible sounding Dutch Dream - that I fall asleep; my head on the four giant crisp white marshmallows that are already on the bed.

Tuesday

10am, Wellington Zoo

Drizzle threatens but nothing's going to dampen my spirits as I set off to hand-feed a rare red panda at Wellington Zoo. Jay the red panda peers at me curiously from the safety of his wee cabin before bravely deciding to venture out to see what I'm holding. His braveness pays off - I feed him halved grapes and cubed pear. He paws at my hands for more, slipping me an accidental yet adorable panda high-five in the process.

7pm, Matterhorn

This is what Wellington does best: style, cuisine and atmosphere all rolled into one. Matterhorn's understated entrance off Cuba Mall belies the suaveness within - all flickering candles and sleek floors. The achingly good-looking staff saunters between tables, delivering suspiciously subtle-looking cocktails and wine from the 300 on selection (no wonder it just won Bar of the Year, 2008!).

As intriguing as the detailed menu is the clientele - a hotch-potch of happy looking locals, proving the Matterhorn's claim that it's 'a regular's restaurant' where 'attitude is most certainly valued over attire'. Wined and dined, I depart; my mind lingering wistfully on the strangely delicious honey and feta balls entree.


Wednesday

11am, Schoc Chocolaterie

I'm sipping my orange and lavender flavoured 'Hot Schocolate' through a 'stroon' - part straw, part spoon. The 'stroon' isn't the only thing that's a little different here at Schoc Chocolaterie & Espresso Bar. This is a place where chocolate is an indication of your personality, and where flavours like geranium, tequila and pink peppercorn might just turn up in your confection.

Roger Simpson and Murray Langham developed Schoc chocolate under the concept of 'chocology' - chocolate psychology. According to the pair, the type, shape and flavour of chocolate you select reflects multiple facets of your personality and behaviours. For example, I learnt that I'm greedy and indecisive - a fact proven, not by my chocolate preference, but by the fact I took well over 15 minutes choosing which eclectic flavour to take home... and ended up taking three!

8pm, 2km from the central city

A kiwi runs across my foot in the darkness. The exclamations from the sharp-eyed members of our group are hushed by the trilling call of the kiwi, so near that the sound vibrates through my body. Here at Karori Sanctuary there are around 100 Little Spotted Kiwi.

Together with the other 30 species of native bird and reptile found here, the kiwi live as they would in the wild, yet safe behind the sanctuary's 2.2m high, 8.6km long fence. A Sanctuary by Night tour is your best chance of viewing the nocturnal national bird of New Zealand. Even at night, sightings of the elusive birds are rare, but there's an incomparable thrill in bush walking at night, led along winding paths by the trill of hidden kiwi and the shimmer of delicate glow worms.


Thursday

1pm, Te Papa

2008 marks the 10th birthday of Te Papa Tongarewa - the Museum of New Zealand. Since opening in 1988, Te Papa has welcomed 14.5 million people from around the world. Thinking I could pop in for a quick dash around to see what all the fuss is about, I'm surprised to find myself ensconced for hours.

First of all by fixed exhibitions like Awesome Forces - a glimpse of New Zealand's tectonic history; Blood, Earth, Fire - a stroll through the transformation of the land of Aotearoa; and the imposing Signs of a Nation - outlining New Zealand's controversial founding document, the Treaty of Waitangi.

Venturing outside for a breather I find myself in Bush City - a permanent outdoor exhibition where native trees shroud a swing-bridge, glow worm cave and a wetland space. Back indoors I wind my way to the top floor and browse through centuries of New Zealand art, including a wander out on the Sculpture Terrace - an ever changing space for artistic installations.

The passing exhibition - Whales | Tohorā - captures my attention and I spend the afternoon learning about the plight of these beautiful creatures, and crawling on my hands and knees through a replica whale heart.

Eventually, as dusk hovers along the Wellington waterfront, I emerge - physically and mentally exhausted and oh so wiser for the experience.

Friday

6pm, Chow

After a meal at 'Fresh Asian' restaurant Chow (where dining is redefined with the brilliant 'long plate' concept, and where 'fresh' can't be emphasised enough), four friends and I wander the sparkling waterfront. We're heading for a concert at the TSB Arena but, en route, the city's infectious vibe envelops us and we stop for gelato and people watching.

Kids are jumping into the harbour for an evening swim; bar patrons are lolling on the lawn, beer in hand; gaggles of young girls clip-clop by in clouds of perfume and anticipation. The paved waterfront is dotted with intriguing artworks, offset by the busy, glistening harbour. And all the while, there's that palpable buzz in the air...

Amelia visited Wellington courtesy of http://www.fourcorners.co.nz and Positively Wellington Tourism. She was a guest of the Bolton Hotel and the James Cook Grand Chancellor.