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An Atmosphere of the Marvellous: Christchurch Bike Tours

Sometimes in life, there are things that we just don't see - even when they're right in front of us.

Take Stephanie Fitts, owner of Christchurch Bike Tours. Her thing was a tree, on the day she learnt to ride a bike.

"My Dad told me he would hold on to the back of my bike," she recalls with a warm smile, some 25 years on.

"There I was pedalling away when I realised he wasn't there anymore! I turned my head to check... and rode straight into a tree!"

My thing was the beauty of the city I call home.

It's a humid November afternoon in Christchurch when I meet Stephanie in Cathedral Square. The city's grand, gothic-style Christ Church Cathedral watches on with a stony gaze as I saddle up. My blue Bauer Summerfun bike is all wide handlebars, upright seating and a charming, rhythmically whirring chain. Channelling my back-pedal-braking skills from the 1980s and ringing my handlebar-mounted bell, I wobble off across the square.

Christchurch Bike Tours is New Zealand's only guided city bicycle tour. Stephanie's daily excursion - which operates November to March - is a pleasant two hour ride that ambles through the history and hotspots of Christchurch. Although originally from the North Island, Stephanie has lived in Christchurch for over six years: qualification enough to identify as a proud Cantabrian.

And what's not to be proud of? As we bounce along pretty, cobbled Worcester Boulevard, alongside the Christchurch Botanic Gardens and into Hagley Park, spring scoops us up into its full splendorous swing. Feathery blossoms, vibrant trees and vivid flowers light our way as we cycle. Birds twitter, dogs lollop and people sunbathe. The grass is just mown, the sun is soothing and the breeze, just right.

"In 1997, Christchurch was judged the Garden City of the world," says Stephanie as we cycle beneath huge arching oak trees, mottling the tarmac below with shadows of outstretched leaves. "And on our ride today, you'll see that this is a title the city is very proud of."

One of over 740 parks in Christchurch city, Hagley Park was established in the 1850s by Christchurch's forward-thinking founders who first set aside the 161 hectares of land for public use and then planted the area with trees.

"It is now the third largest central city park in the world, after Central Park in New York and Hyde Park in London," adds Stephanie.

Factual titbits like this are one of the vital ingredients in the successful recipe that is Christchurch Bike Tours. Whilst Christchurch in spring could sell itself to almost anyone, Stephanie's knowledge of the city's history, people and of course, best cycle routes, turns the tour into the enlightening exploration that it is.

"We get people out of the central city to see parts of Christchurch they wouldn't normally see," she explains.

Locals included: at historic Riccarton House we dismount our bikes to visit Deans Cottage and Riccarton Bush. "It's amazing how many local people have never been here," comments Stephanie. I smile guiltily, and disappear into the colonial cottage that once housed the pioneering Deans family of Canterbury.

Built by the family in 1843, Deans Cottage is now registered with the New Zealand Historic Places Trust as a Category 1 Historic Place. The tiny three-room cottage sits alongside its grandiose two storied replacement, Riccarton House. Both houses were built using timber sawn from neighbouring Riccarton Bush: Christchurch's last remaining stand of kahikatea forest, which the Deans had the prudence to protect.

Stephanie leads us through the forest's predator-proof gate. The smouldering sun under which we've been cycling disappears behind shrouds of 600-year-old kahikatea trees, sprightly cabbage trees and enormous rimu. Fantails and bellbirds chirrup, and the sounds of the city become muffled as we wander the tranquil boardwalks.

From ancient kahikatea to barely blooming buds, our cycle route takes us onwards to Mona Vale. Now a collection of fragrant, manicured gardens, Mona Vale was also once owned by the Deans family. In 1905 the Deans sold the 5.5hectare property to a woman named Annie Townend.

After Annie's death in 1914 the estate had a succession of owners before plans were made in the 1960s to subdivide the land. At this time, the people of Christchurch showed foresight akin to their forebears and contributed $55,000 to save Mona Vale from destruction. Matched with $135,000 from the city council, this contribution enabled Mona Vale to remain intact, as a city treasure.

As well as preserving and maintaining Christchurch's gardens, plenty of council time and money has gone into developing the city's cycle ways. Christchurch City Council was one of the first council's in New Zealand to develop a strategy for cycling, aimed at increasing the level and enjoyment of cycling, as well as the safety of cyclists in the city.

"We're really lucky in Christchurch because there are loads of these cycle paths and things," says Stephanie, indicating the special cycle road crossing we've stopped at, complete with cycle shaped crossing lights and bike-height footpath leaners. "The city really is designed for cyclists to commute and ride around in, and there's more of this sort of thing happening all the time now, which is great. The council have really got in behind it."

We follow the bright red cycle lanes into the CBD, stopping in at Christchurch's original market place, Victoria Square, before turning into historic New Regent Street.

The city tram takes centre stage and sets the old-world mood of this narrow pedestrian street. Two-storied Spanish Mission-style shop-fronts line the tiled lane, mirroring one another in their design and confetti colours. Each has a minute wrought iron balcony equipped with a narrow fire escape ladder.

"A long time ago," recounts Stephanie in a fairy-tale manner that befits this enchanted street, "there was an ice skating rink here. Couples used to come here to court.

"It's been said that back then, those little ladders up there were used for more than just escaping fires!"

As we ride back to base, I think of all my new-found knowledge of Christchurch, which invokes a line from an old poem: "The life of our city is rich in poetic and marvellous subjects. We are enveloped and steeped as though in an atmosphere of the marvellous; but we do not notice it."

I couldn't agree more.

Amelia is Content Editor for the New Zealand travel website www.fourcorners.co.nz.

She experienced Christchurch Bike Tours courtesy of http://www.fourcorners.co.nz/ and Christchurch Bike Tours.

Visit fourcorners.co.nz. One Guide, All the Answers.

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