High up in the St Paul's Cathedral 'Whispering Gallery' visitors are testing the theory behind the name, their mouths or ears pressed against the cool, old walls. Some are sensibly whispering and listening but others are missing the point entirely and yelling at their loved ones. 'Can you hear me?' one woman screams at her partner on the other side of the dome. Oh yes love, they can hear you in Manchester.

The idea is that a mere whisper can be heard from faraway parts of the 'Whispering Gallery,' which is 259 steps above the main part of the Cathedral. Before beginning our taxing climb up, we took a slow and stunned walk around the 200-year-old building, which is the fifth cathedral to be built in the same place.

As we walked over the black and white patterned tiles, I remembered this was where Diana became one of the most famous brides in the world and I can still see exactly how her 25-foot bridal train looked spread down the aisle as she walked towards Prince Charles.

As we approached the back of the Cathedral, the clock struck midday and a very wrinkled priest appeared to recite the Lord's Prayer. We stood utterly still, in awe of the place and the priest's voice and it was one of the most emotional recitations of the prayer I've ever experienced.

Then we began the mission to the top of St Paul's. As we ascended, people were coming downwards looking flushed and excited, if not a little exhausted. I had read in so many London travel books that the best view of London was up there. Not many books referred to how St Paul's will make you feel so bloody unfit. All the way up tourists were bending over to catch their breath, looking a little embarrassed.

While it certainly got more difficult the higher we climbed, it became more interesting too. Tiny windows revealed slithers of the London skyline, while impossibly small locked doors alluded to mysterious rooms we weren't allowed to enter. The stairs narrowed and became slippery, worn away by all the feet which have stomped up them since 1708. And then, as we neared the top we wound up endless spiral staircases hardly big enough for adult backsides.

At the top there was the most glorious view of London, spread out like I'd never seen it. The books had said wait for a sunny day and we'd picked a pearler. Even the grim old Thames was sparkling below. Up there you can get a great view of the beautiful St Paul's Cathedral clock tower, shiny and gold. The London Eye is the size of an aniseed wheel and the buildings were gleaming in the afternoon sun.

St Paul's is worthy of its status as one of London's most visited sights. It is a stunning and impeccable cathedral and there's something really magical about climbing such old and interesting steps. Once we reached the bottom again my legs turned to jelly and were so wobbly I started to feel ill, as if I'd been struck by vertigo. They stayed that way for a good hour - but it was worth it.