I was once a humble traveller, content to stay in the merest of backpackers' hostels. Grotty shared showers and dorm rooms of 20 people didn't faze me.

But Malaysia has spoiled me with its amazing calibre of luxury accommodation. I've already written about the colonial charms of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel in Georgetown, Penang.

After two nights' stay there we were dismayed to find we had to move on, but quickly realised we'd fallen on our feet when we arrived at our next stop, the five-star Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa at Batu Feringgi Beach.

It's massive - set on 30 acres of grounds, it boasts 304 rooms and suites over two wings and has six restaurants and bars.

We were welcomed into the Rasa wing's lobby (the place is so huge each wing has its own lobby) and given beautiful boxed orchids as a welcome present.

As guests of the Rasa wing we had exclusive access to a special lounge, complimentary cocktails and canapes each evening and a separate swimming pool, although I had to try out the enormous main pool complex as well.

My room was at once kitschy retro and ultra-modern, with dark panelled walls, padded headboards and doors with crocodile-shaped handles. Apparently this is a traditional Minangkabau style designed to promote serenity.

But serenity was definitely not in evidence as I squealed and jumped around like a little kid, marvelling at just how fancy this place was.

I had two huge beds to choose from, a mammoth desk with all my internet and stationery needs taken care of and a flatscreen TV.

The bathroom was glorious, with L'Occitane toiletries and a state-of-the art shower with four different shower heads.

I could recline on the daybed or in my outdoor spa bath on the balcony (having had the staff fill it with bubbles and petals and pour me champagne), overlooking tropical gardens and watching people parasail on the beach.

That night we gorged ourselves at the Spice Market restaurant, a buffet-style establishment offering Malay, Chinese, Indian and European-style foods, before heading out to the Batu Feringgi night markets.

These stretch along the main road, with everything from DVDs and video games to batik, clothing, knick-knacks and toys on sale.

Back at the hotel I sank into sleep, thinking it couldn't get better than this. But even more luxury awaited at our next stop, over on the mainland in the misty Cameron Highlands...

Amy Williams travelled to Malaysia courtesy of Malaysia Airlines and Tourism Malaysia.

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