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The hipster's guide to Wellington

Wellingtonians pride themselves on being more cultured, more individual and more offbeat than certain other parts of the country - and the funny part is, the rest of us tend to agree. Wellington is cool.

It's no surprise, then, that Wellington is a haven for hipsters - young, quirky types who take their food, fashion, art and music very seriously indeed. And we're not just talking about your average emo - you know the ones; skinny jeans, daggy haircut, Converse sneakers and a desperate need to be different. The capital is home to some cutting-edge individuals.

So where do these scenesters hang out? Where do they eat, drink and shop? Let's take a tour.

The most obvious place to start is the Cuba quarter and its epicentre, Cuba St. Home to the famous Bucket Fountain, it's also your best bet for streetwise fashion, some of the city's best clubs and plenty of bars and cafes.

Whether your clothing budget runs to chain store threads (worn ironically), upmarket designer or vintage chic you can find something to surprise and delight in this neighbourhood. I could have spent ages browsing in iconic urbanwear outlet Spacesuit, but dragged myself away to explore further and was rewarded with some new treasures at boutiques like Madame Fancy Pants (home to some of the prettiest and most unusual jewellery around) and Pixel Ink.

Cafes are liberally sprinkled along the strip, so there's always somewhere to collapse, grab a freshly-brewed pick-me-up and examine your purchases before setting off again. Try Fidel's, Midnight Espresso or Espressoholic - Fidel's has a fantastic courtyard where you can people-watch while you relax.

The art scene is thriving in Wellington, but it's not only the large established galleries attracting attention. The fabulously-named Manky Chops gallery is upstairs at 166A Cuba Street and offers a fresh and deconstructed perspective on local art. But keep an eye out while you're walking around - street art is everywhere and there are some fantastic examples to be seen.

Feeling hungry?  Take a detour off Cuba onto Left Bank, an alleyway full of quirky boutiques, ethnic eateries, bookshops and jewellery stores, and stop in at Offbeat Originals for a Kiwiana fix.

This little café is cosily kitsch - think walls lined with thermoses and the kind of vases your nana used to collect, and retro mismatched furniture. Get an old-fashioned burger or toastie and a thickshake (your order number comes on a plastic roadcone) - or if you're only a little peckish, grab some homemade slice or a bag of mixed lollies from the jars on the counter.

Later on, meet up with friends for a drink and some live music at Mighty Mighty (104 Cuba Street) or the San Francisco Bath House (171 Cuba Street).

Or do you really want to find where all the cool kids are at? Amusingly enough, the place you're most likely to find these anti-establishment types is at a sporting event. The old-school spectacle that is roller derby is making a comeback and Wellingtonians are at the forefront of this renaissance.

This hard-hitting, dramatic, all-female sport is rapidly gaining fans and they're fiercely loyal, so if you want to catch a battle (check out Richter City's website here) make sure you're appropriately dressed in your favourite team's colours.

(Disclaimer: sadly I wasn't able to take in a derby myself - but you bet I would have if I'd been in Welly on the right weekend!)

As the night rolls on, follow the night owls to Courtenay Place. The streets may be teeming with drunken frat types, but the area also houses some funkier joints, like Motel, Library and Alice (where one can drink themed cocktails out of dainty china teapots).

The next day, head back to the far end of Courtenay Place to Sweet Mother's kitchen for lunch or brunch. You may be feeling a tad green around the gills after your big night out, but a good hearty meal from this Creole/Mexican style eatery will sort you out in no time.

Revel in the festive decorations of hula girls, pinatas and fairy lights as you sip your peanut butter thickshake (I'm serious - give it a try) and drool over the menu.  Think hush puppies, gumbo, plenty of beans and rice, every variety of egg you can think of and their famous po'boy sandwiches. This is comfort food with a twist.

And the only way to ensure you're getting the full hipster experience? Tweet your every step, and post the pictures on your blog later.

Find out more about Wellington.

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1 Comments Report Abuse
1. petercee@xtra.co.nz - Oct 30 10:45am
just be sure you dont get caught in the streets at night, its pretty dangerous out there at night.
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