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Rio de Janeiro

Be warned: Rio's powers of seduction can leave you with a bad case of saudade (indescribable longing) when you leave. Planted between lush, forest-covered mountains and breathtaking beaches, the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) has many charms, most notably the Cariocas, its exuberant residents.

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Rio de Janeiro Transport

Coming and Going

Flights go from Rio to all of Brazil and Latin America, as well as many other major cities. The international departure tax from Brazil is about 40.00. This may be included in the price of your ticket, but if it's not you have to pay it in cash at the airport.

Rio's Galeão International Airport is 15km (9mi) north of the city center on Ilha do Governador. Santos Dumont Airport, used by some domestic flights, is by the bay in the city center, 1km (0.6mi) east of Cinelândia metro station.

There's a safe, air-conditioned bus service from the international airport to Novo Rio bus station, Av Rio Branco (Centro), Santos Dumont Airport, southward along the beaches to Barra da Tijuca and vice-versa. They stop where you ask, and run all day from the crack of dawn to just after midnight.

Comun (standard) taxis from the international airport are generally safe, though there are occasional robberies reported. Radio taxis are safer, but more expensive. You pay a set fare for them at the airport.

From Rio there are buses to just about everywhere. They all leave from the loud Novo Rio Rodoviária. Excellent buses leave every 15 minutes or so for São Paulo. Most major destinations have very comfortable leito (executive) buses, which leave late at night.

Getting About

Rio's buses are a mixture of the good, the bad and the ugly. It's easy to track down the right bus, but they're often crowded, slowed by traffic and driven by maniacs; they are also the scene of many of the city's robberies. Don't carry any valuables, try to sit near the driver and avoid packed buses, and be cautious.

In addition to their number, buses have their destinations, including the areas they go through, written on the side. Nine out of 10 buses going south from the center will go to Copacabana and vice versa.

On most buses you board at the front, and pay the fare to the money collector.

Rio's subway system is an excellent, speedy way to get around. It's open from very early morning to midnight Monday through Saturday, with slightly reduced hours on Sunday and holidays.

Both air-conditioned lines are clean, fast and safe. The main line goes from Cantagalo in Copacabana to Saens Peña, connecting with the secondary line at Estácio (which provides service to São Cristóvão, Maracanã and northern suburbs). More stations are planned in the coming years, and eventually Ipanema (Praça General Osório) will be linked to the system. You can buy one-way, round-trip or 10-ride tickets. Free subway maps are available at most ticket booths.

Rio's taxis are quite handy for zipping around town, but do exercise caution. Metered taxis aren't too expensive, but charge slightly more at night and on Sunday. Radio taxis are 30% more expensive, but safer - and they'll come to you.

Car-rental agencies are at the airport and clustered together on Av Princesa Isabel in Copacabana. Prices aren't cheap, but they do go down a little off-season.

Rio was once serviced by a multitude of trams. However, the only one still running is the Santa Teresa tram, known locally as the bondinho. It's still the best way to get to Santa Teresa from downtown.

If you prefer to rely on your own two feet, be careful! Drivers run red lights, run up on the sidewalks and stop for nothing and no one.


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