Things to See in Beijing

With three richly worked archways and five main halls (each one taller than the preceding one), revolving prayer wheels, multi-coloured glaze tiles, magnificent Chinese lions, tantric statuettes and hall boards decorated with Mongolian, Manchu, Tibetan and Chinese, the Lama Temple is Bijng's most magnificent Buddhist temple.

Beneath the giant wooden rafters of the ancient Dongbianmen Watchtower, in a room cooled by vast slate floors, hangs an array of avant-garde art. Established by an Australian art historian, Red Gate Gallery displays Beijing's most innovative and electric modern art.

The Drum Tower was first built in 1272 and marked the centre of the old Mongol capital Dàd. Originally constructed of wood, the structure went up in flames and was rebuilt in 1420, since then it has been repeatedly destroyed and restored. Stagger up the incredibly steep steps for wide-ranging views over Bijng's rooftops. The drums of this later Ming dynasty version were beaten to mark the hours of the day - in effect the Big Ben of Bijng.

The world's largest public square, Tiananmen Sq is a vast desert of paving stones at the heart of Bijng. It may be a grandiose, Maoist tourist trap, but the view is breathtaking on a clear day and at nightfall. Kites flit through the sky, children stamp around and Chinese out-of-towners huddle together for the obligatory photo opportunity.

By 1969, as the USA landed men on the moon, Mao had decided the future for Beijing's people lay underground. Alarmist predictions of nuclear war with Russia dispatched an army of Chinese beneath the streets to burrow a huge warren of bombproof tunnels which has now been put to use as warehouses, hotels and restaurants.

The huge regal encampment of the Summer Palace is one of the city's principle attractions. Once a playground for the imperial court eluding the insufferable summer swelter of the Forbidden City, today the palace grounds, its temples, gardens, pavilions, lakes and corridors teem with marauding tour groups.

The stellar Beijing Aquarium is a worthwhile diversion in the northeastern corner of the Beijing Zoo. On view is an imaginative Amazon rainforest (complete with piranha), coral reefs, a shark aquarium (where you can dive with the flesh eaters), and a marine mammal pavilion. The last hosts lively aquatic animal displays.

The Forbidden City, so-called because it was off-limits to most of the world for 500 years, is the best preserved cluster of ancient buildings in China. The old world of beautiful concubines and priapic emperors, ball-breaking (and broken) eunuchs and conspicuous wealth still hovers over the lush gardens, courtyards, pavilions and great halls of the palace.

Originally an ancient temple, this ornately decorated building is the oldest wooden theatre in the country and the best place in the city to experience Beijing opera and other operatic disciplines like Kunqu. Restored by a private businessman with an interest in reviving this dying art, the theatre reopened in 1995 after a long period of disrepair.

This popular teahouse has nightly shows of Beijing opera, cross-talk and acrobatics. Walk in past a statue of former US president George Bush on your right and head upstairs. Evening performances of Beijing opera, folk art, music, acrobatics and magic are the most popular. Phone ahead or check online for the schedule.

This laid-back place on the bar-cluttered Yandai Xijie gets top marks for novelty. Formerly the Guangfuguan Taoist Temple (according to the characters carved on the lintel above the arched doorway), the shrine has been requisitioned for the city's exploding bar scene and simply decked out with art posters. The temple's roof guardians are still intact and the presence of religious statues reminds visitors that they drink on sacred turf.

Recently reopened after renovations, Suzie Wong's décor still screams Shanghai opium-den and attracts Beijing's most beautiful people with house, techno, pop and rock. Get here early if you want one of the kang-style, low-level beds stacked with pillows. The club entrance is south of Chaoyang Park. Suzie is on the second floor.

In the alley between the Drum and Bell Towers, this bar's staff is among the friendliest in town. The comfy rooftop terrace is loaded with couches and armchairs and in summer, regulars camp out here 'til closing.

Emergency medical centre.

Five floors of anything you might need and a favourite with both expats and visitors. Basement: shoes, handbags and suitcases. Big Shoes is useful for anyone struggling to house big feet. First floor: coats and jackets. Second floor: hiking gear, suits, ladies wear. Third floor: silk, clothes, carpets, fabrics and tailors to fashion your material into something wearable. Fourth floor: jewellery, souvenirs, toys and a beauty salon. Bargain hard.

South of Panjiayuan and next to the Antique City Hotel, Curio City is four floors of antiques, scrolls, ceramics, carpets and furniture. The ground floor is jade and pearls, the 2nd and 3rd floors are antiques and carpets and the 4th specialises in antique clocks and watches. Popular with tour groups, this is a good place to find knick-knacks and souvenirs but don't assume that all the antiques are the real deal.

Unsurpassed communist kitsch delivered straight to your hands from the axis of evil. Ponder maps of Pyongyang and browse edifying literature (Towards the Eminence of Socialism), North Korean ciggies, liquor, T-shirts, posters vilifying America, DPRK flags, postcards and badges. Grab a copy of The US Imperialists started the Korean War while you're there.

It's not a big hotel, or a famous hotel, or a stylish hotel. Chairman Mao never stayed here, and IM Pei didn't design it. It's just a simple, unpretentious little place with clean, comfy rooms and super-helpful staff. And it really puts the location in 'location, location, location'.

The grand in the name surely refers to the view. Truly the most magnificent in Beijing, it affords a bird's-eye lookout over the entire Forbidden City. Not every room shares this panorama, but fortunately the price is not so much higher for those that do.

In the heart of Beijing's business centre, the 23-year-old Jianguo has been a contender for a long time. It's aging in places, and the yesteryear design is in need of a serious refit, but the amenities are there for the business traveller, and there's a range of eating and drinking options.

This atmospheric Tibetan restaurant has the best of everything: welcoming staff, traditional decorations and all the classics including yak meat, momo (Tibetan dumplings) and yogurt. Dinner reservations are recommended on Friday and Saturday.

As essential to a Beijing trip as a visit to the Great Wall, the sampling of Peking duck is an absolute must - to miss out you'd have to be completely quackers. Despite the marketing devices and duck props, this place, dating back to 1864, remains one of the city's best for succulent roast duck.

Xiao Wang serves up some of the city's best comfort food including deep-fried spareribs and hot and spicy Xinjiang chicken wings. A long-time favourite with both locals and travellers. English menu available.

This hygienic fast food emporium puts Cantonese, Yúnnán, Sìchun, teppanyaki, clay pot, Korean and porridge (; zhu) outlets all under one roof. One outlet, Chinese Dumplings puts together great dumplings (; jiozi) and buns (; bozi). Sichuan Delights serves up a fine chilli-oil red dàndanmiàn (; Sìchun noodles in peppery sauce). You can eat very well for around 20. Buy a food card (5 deposit) at the entrance kiosk to pay for your meal.