Auckland's volcanic cones

Auckland sits on top of a large volcanic field that has produced around 53 volcanic scoria cones in the last 140 thousand years. Each of the cones is monogenetic, which means it was formed by a single bubble of magma that rose from deep within the earth. This means the next eruption is likely to occur on the thinner crusted areas between the existing cones.

Wherever you are in Auckland, a green volcanic cone is never far from view. Two of the more prominent examples are Maungawhau (Mount Eden) and Maungakiekie (One Tree Hill).

Maungawhau, meaning mountain of the whau tree, is the highest of all at 196 metres. It has an oval base caused by three in-line craters. Maungawhau's lava flows covered 5.6 square kilometres and the 'bubble' contained enough lava to fill 32,000 Olympic swimming pools. Maori people lived on Maungawhau until around 1700 when the pa (fortification) was abandoned. Changes to the natural shape of the cone are clearly visible today, providing evidence of Maori terracing, food pits and house sites.

Maungakiekie, meaning hill of the kiekie vine, was home to one of the largest Maori settlement structures in New Zealand and included three pa sites. Terracing and pits can be found all over the cone. The mountain has been a reserve since 1840 and in 1901 an affluent early Aucklander had the vision and generosity to gift his adjacent farm to the city as a park. Today they offer an extensive recreational area for visitors and the residents of Auckland. With walking tracks, glades of forest, picnic areas and paddocks of sheep and cattle, there is delightfully rural feeling to this inner city enclave.

Maungawhau, Maungkiekie and many of the other larger cones offer long-range, 360 degree views of the surrounding land and sea. Because Auckland is on a narrow isthmus you can easily see from one side of New Zealand to the other.

Muriwai Gannet Colony

Muriwai's gannet colony is a one hour drive from the centre of Auckland. Next to the car park, a short walking track leads to a viewing platform right above the main colony area. Out to sea, the colony continues on two vertical-sided islands. About 1,200 pairs of gannets nest here from August to March each year.

The nests are just centimetres apart. It's an air traffic controller's nightmare, but somehow the birds have it under control. Those coming in to land must glide over the squawking raised beaks of their neighbours - so getting it wrong can be painful. These two-and-a-half kilogram birds have a wingspan of two metres, and their mastery of the onshore updrafts is impressive to say the least.

Each pair lays one egg and the parents take turns on the nest. The chicks hatch naked, but within a week they're covered with fluffy down. As they mature, they grow juvenile feathers and begin to exercise their wings in preparation for the one-shot jump off the cliff.

Once airborne, the young gannets leave the colony and cross the Tasman Sea to Australia. A few years later, surviving birds return to secure a nest site at the colony.

The views from the colony are very impressive. Muriwai Beach extends 60 kilometres to the north - a line of black sand between the thundering surf and the sand hills. Far below, enthusiastic surfers look like seals on the large ocean swells.

Auckland's West Coast Beaches

Along the western edge of Auckland, from the Manukau Harbour north to the Kaipara Harbour, ancient volcanic ranges covered in rainforest rise steeply from the Tasman Sea. Their time-weathered cliffs are interrupted by river valleys ending in long, black sand beaches. The thundering ocean swells break well off the beach and reform several times to finally slide up the sand. Whatipu, Karekare, Piha, Bethells and Muriwai beaches have a remote, untamed beauty that's good for the soul.

Whatipu is at the northern head of the entrance to the Manukau Harbour. Powerful currents cross the sand bars to meet the long ocean swells. Many early ships were lost here when they strayed from the deeper channel. A native forest walk through the ranges returns along this beach with its hill-sized sand dunes, sun-dried driftwood and a cave once used as a ballroom.

At Karekare, three streams from a forest valley converge and descend to the beach. There are several forest walks in the area. An easy track leads to the Karekare Falls, which tumble six metres into a beautiful opal pool. The broad, firm beach is ideal for walking or running along the water's edge.

Piha is popular with experienced surfers. Lion Rock, a small island, stands in the middle of the beach offering panoramic views to those who climb the 70 metre track to the top.

Bethells (Te Henga) is smaller, and cosier feeling, than the other beaches. The sand begins well back from the surf and there is a shallow lagoon before the river reaches the sea. A walking track crosses the northern headland to secluded O'Neill Bay, a favourite with surfers.

Muriwai is a regional park with cliff top trails to a gannet colony near the car park at its southern end. The beach runs 60 kilometres north to the Kaipara Harbour, interrupted only by streams and rivers. This is a great place to stretch your legs and overdose on fresh ocean air.

Visitors to the west coast beaches need to be aware that the powerful surf creates changing undertows and rips, but you can swim safely where there are surf patrol flags. There are camp sites at most of the beaches.

Waitakere Ranges

The Waitakere Ranges Regional Park covers 28 square kilometres of native forest, rivers and beaches along the western coastline of Auckland. It is one of 22 conservation parks within easy reach of the city's centre.

There are more than 250 kilometres of walking tracks waiting to be explored in the ranges. The tracks range from 10 minute strolls to multi-day hikes over mountains, through river valleys and along wild deserted beaches.

One of the best places to start is the Arataki Visitor Centre, just 25 minutes drive from Auckland's central business district. To find Arataki, head west to the artistic village of Titirangi and pause for a great coffee in one of several cafés. Continue driving for five kilometres along the appropriately named Scenic Drive. The ridge-top visitor centre has some magnificent Maori carvings, including an 11 metre high pou (guarding post). A walkway through the tree tops offers panoramic views across the forest to reservoir lakes and the ocean. Informative displays, a multimedia presentation and the knowledgeable park staff will help you to get the most from your time in this scenic area.

Across the road from the Arataki Visitor Centre is a one hour nature trail. This easy walk leads you through regenerating and mature forest to a grove of large kauri trees. Information panels along the way explain the features and traditional uses of the wide variety of native trees.

Along the park's ocean boundary are the west coast surf beaches of Whatipu, Karekare, Piha, Bethells and Muriwai. Towering cliff headlands, huge black sand dunes and thundering surf make these beaches unforgettable.

Waiheke Island

One of the larger Hauraki Gulf islands, Waiheke is just 14 kilometres by ferry from the heart of Auckland city. It's a place that visitors, and the people who are lucky enough to live there, find particularly relaxing.

Home to many of New Zealand's successful artists, Waiheke has a longstanding arts and crafts focus. You'll find a number of galleries and craft outlets in the seaside shopping areas. There are plenty of places to enjoy a good coffee or a taste of New Zealand's clean, fresh cuisine. And with more than a dozen high-quality vineyards, Waiheke is a wine lover's delight. Many of the vineyards include relaxing cafe-style restaurants that look out across the vine-covered valleys to the blue sea beyond.

Several well signposted walkways can help you work up an appetite or walk off an indulgence. The trails include cliff tops, beaches and native forest enclaves. At the eastern end of the island, the Stoney Batter walkway leads to fascinating World War II gun emplacements with underground tunnels that run deep into the hillsides. The tunnels are open to the public, so bring a torch and a sense of adventure.

The popular northern Waiheke beaches at Oneroa, Palm Beach and Onetangi look out over the waters of the Hauraki Gulf. These safe, white sand beaches slope gently down into the sea, making them ideal for picnics, swimming, kayaking or seaside strolls.

Getting around on Waiheke is easy. There are public buses and taxis or you can hire a mountain bike, motor scooter or even a car. If you have your own bike, you can bring it over with you on the ferry. Accommodation on the island ranges from backpacker dorms to luxury boutique lodges.