Tamaki Drive and beaches

Tamaki Drive, the scenic waterfront route around Auckland's eastern bays, has a dedicated cycle lane and is also popular with walkers, runners and skaters. Kayaking is another way to make the journey. Peaceful views across the harbour to the volcanic island Rangitoto accompany you all the way.

The premier beach along this route is Mission Bay, where you'll find white sand and an extensive grassed area ideal for throwing a frisbee, kicking a ball or simply snoozing under one of the large pohutukawa trees. Across the road from the park is a huge selection of cafes and food outlets. A walking track leads up the western headland to Bastion Point - a well maintained park reserve. Here you can enjoy panoramic views of the harbour and islands, explore remnants of World War II defence structures or stroll through the gardens of the memorial to a visionary New Zealand Prime Minister, Michael Joseph Savage.

The next sandy beach is Kohimarama, which is quieter with fewer cafes. It is perhaps best known for its small-boat yacht club, where many of New Zealand's world champion sailors first honed their skills.

The seaside village of Saint Heliers provides the backdrop for Tamaki Drive's final beach. Behind the waterfront cafes, a collection of small local shops offers the option of a little idle retail therapy.

Devonport & North Head

Just across Auckland harbour from the central business district, the historic suburb of Devonport is full of charm and character. Decades of relative isolation by road, followed by visionary town planning, has preserved Devonport's heritage. The streets are lined with wooden colonial villas built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. There are also some large stately homes along the shore facing the city centre.

>From the ferry wharf, the main street leads inland towards the volcanic cone Mount Victoria. Preserved buildings along the street accommodate cafes and small shops selling crafts, antiques and collectibles.

The adjacent naval base was the main focus of Devonport for many decades. A museum at the base offers a wonderful collection of navy memorabilia and fascinating stories of New Zealand's naval history.

Take a walk around Torpedo Bay along the harbour's edge to North Head. This volcanic mountain is strategically positioned above the shipping channel which rounds the headland as it enters the inner harbour. For many years a closed defence position, North Head is now a public area managed by the Department of Conservation. The old gun emplacements and underground connecting tunnels are restored and open for you to explore - bring a torch. The grassy slopes of the hill offer numerous picnic spots with widespread views over the city, harbour and islands of the Hauraki Gulf. Ferries, the occasional ship and a steady stream of pleasure craft add to the entertainment.

A track around the base of North Head passes along a rocky ledge to a small secluded beach before heading down onto Cheltenham Beach, one of the North Shore's prettiest seaside suburbs.

Auckland Domain

The Domain was set aside in 1880 as a 200-acre public reserve. In the 1880s, a pond and the area immediately surrounding it were used by the Auckland Acclimatisation Society as a testing ground for exotic fish and plant species. These early plantings developed into the initial site of Auckland's botanic gardens, leaving a legacy of magnificent mature trees for visitors to enjoy today.

The pond, fed by an underground spring, went on to become Auckland's first water supply. Today it is populated by ducks and the outflow stream runs alongside the picturesque 'Lovers Walk' track through a hillside section of native forest. A second native forest walk leads through a gully, with the option to exit up into the middle of the historic Parnell shopping and restaurant area.

The domain area was formed by volcanic activity 140,000 years ago. The large crater, which has a small scoria cone in its centre, forms a natural amphitheatre for large outdoor events like the annual 'Carols in the Park'. The level floor of the crater is covered with sports fields; a wooden cricket pavilion built in 1898 remains today. The rim of the crater offers panoramic views and is a great place to fly a kite.

The beautiful Wintergardens, opened in 1913, consist of two large glasshouses each exhibiting either temperate or tropical plants. Between the glasshouses is an enclosed courtyard with fish pond, fountains and classical marble statues. The atmosphere here is charged with romance and often attracts newlyweds for photos on their big day. Behind the Wintergardens, an old quarry forms the perfect location for an extensive native fernery.

At the top of the Domain hill stands the architecturally impressive Auckland Museum, a large neo-Greek building that was opened in 1929. A variety of sculptures have been installed throughout the domain and a brochure describing the walk to view them can be obtained from the museum.

Rangitoto Island

As if by design, just 600 years ago a volcanic mountain emerged from the sea to create Auckland's near-perfect natural harbour. Years later, lava flows and ash followed to complete the five kilometre-diameter circular cone that dominates the Auckland seascape.

Surprisingly, Rangitoto is now covered with more than 200 species of native plants and ferns. Several unique hybrids have developed and some plants behave in unusual ways on this relatively new part of New Zealand. The dominant species is the native pohutukawa tree, which displays bright crimson flowers in early summer, earning it the nickname of 'the New Zealand Christmas tree'.

The entire island is a public reserve managed by the Department of Conservation. Walking on the island's sharp, black lava terrain is extremely slow and difficult. Thankfully, the relatively smooth roads and tracks built by earlier prison labour remain today. The walk to the summit (two hours return) passes fascinating caves created by lava that solidified on the surface but continued to flow beneath. Bring a torch to explore these long, dark, craggy tunnels.

Some World War II structures remain on the island, as well as several 1930s baches (rudimentary holiday homes) that have been restored and protected as a snap-shot of earlier times. There are no other buildings on the island and overnight stays are not permitted, so be careful not to miss the last ferry back.