Routeburn Track

The Routeburn Track - one of New Zealand's 'great walks' - takes you through wild mountain country between the Hollyford and Dart Valleys at the base of the Southern Alps. It passes through two national parks - Fiordland and Mount Aspiring - and is part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area. In pre-European times Maori frequently used this route during expeditions to the west coast, where they would hunt for pounamu, a highly valued type of jade.

From end to end, the track takes three days. It isn't a circuit, so you'll need road transport to make the return journey. Much of the track is accessible for day hikers, especially the walk to Key Summit at the Te Anau end. In good weather, a fit person could reach the Harris Saddle in a day. From here the climb up Conical Hill provides massive views of the alps and Tasman Sea.

Compared to other tracks in Fiordland, rainfall is less likely on the Routeburn. The vegetation is different too - more large trees and fewer ferns. Along the high ridges around Harris Saddle, you'll notice delicate sub-alpine herbs and cushion plants. Birdlife is prolific - look for native fantails, parakeets, bellbirds, yellowheads and robins. At Routeburn Falls, cheeky kea (mountain parrots) are always entertaining.

You can walk the Routeburn Track in either direction - ex Glenorchy or ex Te Anau. Hut bookings are recommended, especially during the peak season (late October to late April).

Milford Sound

Described by Rudyard Kipling as the 'eighth wonder of the world', Milford Sound was carved by glaciers during successive ice ages. At its deepest point, off Mitre Peak, it plunges to a depth of 265 metres.

Maori attribute the creation of the fiords to a 'titanic mason' by the name of Tu Te Raki Whanoa. With his magical adze, he sculpted Milford Sound's sheer cliffs and towering mountains.

Wet or fine, Milford Sound is breathtaking. The fiord's sides rise vertically from the dark waters, mountain peaks scrape the sky and waterfalls cascade down precipitous cliffs.

There are various ways to enjoy Milford Sound, the most accessible of New Zealand's fiords. You can take a day trip on a launch or organise an overnight stay on a charter boat. Scenic flights, sea kayaking safaris and diving excursions can also be arranged.

For a look at life below the water's surface, there's an underwater observatory in Harrison Cove. You can see black coral, 11-legged sea stars and delicate anemones, as well as intriguing snakestars that wrap themselves around the black coral.

Doubtful Sound

Sometimes called the 'Sound of Silence' Doubtful Sound is the deepest (420 metres) and second longest (40 kilometres) of the South Island's fiords. It is a powerful place - serene, mysterious and untouched by the modern world.

The fiord was originally named Doubtful Harbour by Captain James Cook, who didn't sail into the inlet because it looked a bit tight for safe manoeuvring. It was later named Doubtful Sound by whalers and sealers.

Like other fiords in the area, Doubtful Sound contains two distinct layers of water that don't mix. The top few meters is fresh water, fed by runoff from the surrounding mountains. Below this is a layer of salt water from the sea. The difference in refractive index between these two layers makes it difficult for light to penetrate. As a result, many deep-sea species - such as black coral - grow in the comparatively shallow depths.

Doubtful Sound has some splendid waterfalls, particularly during the wetter seasons. In the Hall Arm, the Browne Falls cascades 619 metres; Helena Falls at Deep Cove tumbles 220 metres. Wildlife is another reason to visit this fiord - keep an eye out for bottlenose dolphins, fur seals and penguins.

Tours to Doubtful Sound depart from Manapouri and involve a very scenic bus trip across Wilmot Pass. When you reach the fiord, you can explore in a sea kayak or cruise on the resident launch.

Lake Te Anau

Lake Te Anau is the largest of the southern glacial lakes, covering an area of 344 square kilometres. The main body of the lake runs north-south and three large fiords reach out from its western side - these arms are called North Fiord, Middle Fiord and South Fiord. Rolling hill country characterises the eastern side of the lake; the western side is a magnificent wilderness of forest and mountains - the Kepler and Murchison Ranges rise to around 1700 metres above sea level.

Most of Lake Te Anau is within the boundaries of Fiordland National Park and the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage site. Of the two settlements on the shores of the lake, the township of Te Anau is the largest. Here you'll find operators who can take you cruising or kayaking on the lake. You can also visit the Te Ana-au glowworm caves, which are still geologically active.

To see some of the endangered bird species that live in Fiordland, visit the local wildlife centre. Takahe, weka, parakeets, tui, kea, kaka and wood pigeons thrive in this Department of Conservation sanctuary.