Spain's most visited monument, the Alhambra palace, presides over a city full of architectural and historic treasures. Today, Granada's Islamic past is being reinvented for the 21st century in the shops, restaurants, tearooms and mosque of a growing North African community in and around the Albayzín. Alongside them flourish smart new tapas bars, tiny flamenco dives and chrome-and neon-clubs that support a dynamic student and gay scene.
During the period of Muslim domination of Spain, Granada was the finest city on the peninsula. Today it is still home to the greatest Muslim legacy in Europe, and one of the most inspiring attractions on the Continent - the 11th-century Alhambra.
The Alhambra is one of the greatest accomplishments of Islamic art and architecture, and is simply breathtaking. Much has been written about the fortress, the palace, its patios and gardens, but somehow nothing can really prepare you for it.
One of the first people to fall in love with Seville was the poet-king Al-Mutamid, and the city's ability to dazzle has not abated since. It takes a stony heart not to be captivated by its exuberant atmosphere - stylish, confident, ancient, proud, yet also convivial, intimate and fun-loving.
Its crowded centre unfolds subtly as you wind your way through narrow streets and small squares. Its flamenco, bullfighting and nightlife are incomparable. But above all, Seville is an atmosphere. Being out among its happy, celebratory crowds on a warm night is an unforgettable experience.