Things to See in Miami

This excellent nature center, the namesake of a beloved environmental crusader, is a perfect little introduction and exploration of the continental USA's own little subtropical ecosystem: South Florida. There are weekend hikes and nature lessons (including programs for tots) that let kids wade into the water with nets and catch sea horses, sponges and other marine life (released after a short lesson).

Miami boasts an excellent zoo, thanks in part to a subtropical climate that allows for large swathes of natural habitat. More than 200 species rep themselves, from elephants to koalas, colobus monkeys, black rhinoceroses, a pair of Komodo dragons and Bengal tigers (including a gorgeous white tiger) prowling an evocative Hindu temple. For a quick overview (because the zoo is so big), hop on the Zoofari Monorail.

This fine 15-hectare (38-acre) marine life park excels in preserving, protecting and educating us about aquatic creatures. Shows and exhibits include a tropical reef; the Shark Channel, with feeding presentations; and Discovery Bay, a natural mangrove habitat that serves as a refuge for rehabilitating rescued sea turtles.

This opulent Italian Renaissance-style villa was built for industrialist James Deering in 1916. The villa brims with 15th- to 19th-century furniture, tapestries, paintings and decorative arts, while the seaside grounds feature splendid gardens, beautiful fountains, sculptures, elegant pools, a charming gazebo, canals running everywhere and lots of trails.

Even though it's opened a satellite gallery in Wynwood, you should still hike waaay up to North Miami to see the excellent collection at the main MoCA building. The sharp, geometric grounds are pleasurable enough, but even better are exhibitions from artists such as Jorge Pardo and Robert Moss and pieces on loan from institutions such as the Tate Modern in London.

This is a friendly, eclectic spot, serving a truly mind boggling range of global dishes. But the way to go is Jamaican, via the curry lobster, stewed peas with pork, jerk chicken or vegetable curry (one of the veggie options here). Traditional breakfasts include eggs or akee served with boiled bananas, and dessert spoils you rotten with sweet-potato pudding.

What is it with South Americans and meat? We like beef, but this is a butcher with a grill, an all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria (steakhouse) where the waiters wander around with swords - swords! - of skewered, juicy, fat-dribblingactually, come here with that skirt steak, Sergio.

There's a secret colony of older working-class Cubans and construction workers hidden among South Beach's sex-and-flash, and evidently, they eat here (next to a Benetton, natch). Puerto Sagua challenges the American diner with this reminder: Cubans can greasy-spoon with the best of them. Portions of favorites such as picadillo (spiced ground beef with rice, beans and plantains) are stupidly enormous.

This hot spot, with authentic Cuban music and a small dance floor, is enhanced by Cuban memorabilia and cigar smoke. A house band is often complemented by other musicians who stop in to jam. The cafe also plays vintage Cuban music videos and film clips.

This bar rocks the martini world with incredible beachside Bombay Sapphire martinis. The tropical, chic atmosphere, smooth service, occasional live music, karaoke and open mic nights are included at no extra charge. Also includes a nightclub where there's something different each Fri, Sat and Sun night, from DJs who spin deep house, R&B and hip-hop.

The oldest bar in Miami Beach (established in 1926), the Deuce is a real neighborhood bar and hype-free zone. It's just straight-up seediness, which, depending on your outlook, can actually be quite refreshing. Plan to see everyone from transgendered ladies to construction workers and hipsters to bikers.