Mark Twain declared Hawaii to be 'the loveliest fleet of islands that lies anchored in any ocean', and not even years of mass tourism have managed to prove him wrong. Its very name conjures dreamy images of drinking mai tais to slack-key guitar. But it's not all hibiscus behind the ear and papaya on the chin: it's also hikes along the smoldering crust of a living volcano, hip-hop in Waikiki and snorkelling with vivid fish.

Thousands of gems fashion the archipelago's necklace, but only six islands welcome visitors. Each is as different as the multi-ethnic complexions of the local population, who talk story and share their passion about Hawaii as if you're long-lost pals.